Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. This guide walks Sacramento homeowners through the foundation, drainage and finishing details that separate a durable, low-maintenance installation from one that settles, pools water, smells or fails at the seams within a year. Whether you are converting a lawn that has died in our dry summers, creating a dog run that stays dry and odor-free, building a putting green, or preparing a patio or pool surround, the work below the turf matters more than the turf itself.
The guide covers infill options and how much to specify, base preparation on Sacramento's hard caliche soil, drainage rates and underlay choices, seam and edge finishing, and the written specification you should demand from any turf installer. It is written for homeowners in the Sacramento area who want to understand what they are paying for and how to verify the work is done right.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf after installation. It serves four purposes: it props the synthetic fibres upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light and weathering, it adds weight so the turf does not shift in wind or under foot traffic, and it improves drainage by allowing water to flow through the pile. The choice of infill affects performance, feel, odor control and durability.
Silica sand is the baseline infill. It is inexpensive, widely available and does the job on most residential yards. Silica is angular and does not hold water, but it can compact over time and may feel harder underfoot than other options. Coated sand uses rounded silica grains with a polymer or mineral coating. The rounded shape is gentler on the turf fibres and feels softer. Coated sand is often coloured to match the turf and resists compaction better than bare silica. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs. Zeolite is heavier and more expensive than silica, but in a high-traffic pet area or where odor is a concern, the investment pays off.
Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, add a layer of protection against bacteria and fungi while also reducing surface temperature in full sun. These products are specified for commercial applications, playgrounds, and homes where pet odor or heat is a known problem. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is used almost exclusively in sports fields and athletic courts because it provides shock absorption and is designed for high-impact play. Crumb rubber is not recommended for residential yards, patios or pet areas.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and the amount matters. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations. Under-filled turf looks thin and sparse, the backing shows through, and the fibres mat down quickly. The infill also fails to protect the backing from UV damage, which shortens the turf's life. Too much infill can make the turf feel heavy and compacted, restrict drainage, and waste money.
Typical residential turf is specified between 1.5 and 2.5 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the pile height, fibre type and intended use. Pet turf often runs 2 to 3 pounds per square foot to provide extra cushioning and odor control. Putting greens and sports surfaces have their own specifications, typically lighter and more precisely graded. The exact figure depends on the product you choose, so ask your installer to provide it in writing before the work begins. A written spec that names the infill type and pounds per square foot is a red flag for quality and a protection for you.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
Artificial grass is laid over a prepared base that must drain freely and support the turf without settling. The process begins with removal: the existing lawn, sod, old turf and roots are stripped away. If the site is overgrown or has old turf, this step is essential. Once the surface is clear, excavation begins. The soil is graded so that water runs away from the house, the pool deck, or any structure, typically falling at least 1 to 2 percent. On a flat or poorly draining site, this grading step prevents water from pooling under the turf.
Next comes the base layer. In Sacramento, where the soil is often hard caliche or compacted clay that does not drain, a free-draining base of decomposed granite or crushed base rock is laid down, typically three to four inches thick. This material is compacted in lifts (layers) using a plate compactor until it is firm and stable. The compaction prevents the turf from settling into dips and hollows later. On top of the base, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) may be laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf. For pet areas, patios or playgrounds, an optional drainage underlay or cushioning pad is installed before the turf. This pad adds comfort, improves drainage and extends the life of the turf.
On hard surfaces such as concrete, balconies or decks, the process is different. Turf is never glued flat to a slab that cannot drain. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid over the concrete, then the turf is fastened around the perimeter and edge drainage is installed to carry water away. This approach prevents water from pooling between the turf and the concrete, which causes odor and backing failure.
Base Prep on Sacramento Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Sacramento's soil is notoriously hard. The valley floor sits on caliche and compacted clay that sheds water rather than absorbing it. This is the central challenge of base prep in the region. If the base is not properly excavated, graded and compacted, water collects under the turf, creating puddles, odor problems and a soft, unstable surface. A good base prep is invisible, but a bad one fails within months.
The work begins with excavation. The site is dug to a depth that allows for the base material, weed barrier and turf. The excavated area is then graded so that it slopes away from the house, patio or pool at a gentle fall (typically 1 to 2 percent slope). This grading is critical in Sacramento, where heavy winter rains can saturate a flat or poorly drained site. Once graded, three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock is spread and compacted in lifts using a plate compactor. Each lift is tamped firmly until the material is solid and will not shift under foot traffic or settle later. The finished base should feel hard and stable, not spongy or loose.
If a yard has a genuine water problem (standing water after rain, high groundwater, or a history of flooding), drainage must be addressed before the turf goes down. This may involve installing a French drain, a sump, or regrading the entire yard. If the site cannot be drained adequately, we recommend declining the job rather than installing turf that will fail. A well-prepared base is the foundation of a long-lasting installation.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass backing comes in two main types: perforated and fully permeable. Perforated backing has small drainage holes punched through it, allowing water to pass through to the base below. Fully permeable backing is woven or engineered so that water flows through the entire material. Both types work, but the drainage rate (measured in gallons per hour per square foot) varies. A typical residential turf drains between 15 and 30 gallons per hour per square foot, which is fast enough for light rain and routine use. Pet areas and commercial playgrounds may require faster drainage, sometimes 40 gallons per hour per square foot or more, because concentrated urine and heavy downpours put the drainage system to the test.
However, even the fastest-draining turf will fail if the base does not drain. Water that cannot escape through the base will pool under the turf, creating soft spots, odor and backing failure. This is why base preparation and grading are so critical in Sacramento. The turf and base must work together. On hard surfaces such as concrete, patios or balconies, a draining underlay or pad is installed between the concrete and turf to create a gap for water to escape. Without this pad, water pools and the turf fails.
When evaluating a turf product or an installer's proposal, ask for the drainage rate in writing and ask how the base will be prepared. Do not accept vague promises such as "it drains well." Specific numbers and a clear plan for base prep are signs of a competent installer. If the site has a known water problem, discuss it openly before work begins. A good turf installer will tell you if drainage work is needed first.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a rushed one. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf are joined. A good seam is nearly invisible. The two pieces are laid so the grain (the direction the fibres point) aligns, then joined with seam tape and a polyurethane adhesive designed for turf. The tape is embedded in the adhesive and pressed firmly so the bond is permanent and water-tight. A visible seam, a seam that feels raised or spongy, or one where the grain does not match is a sign of poor workmanship. Over time, a bad seam can separate, allowing water to enter the backing and causing the turf to lift.
Edges are equally important. The perimeter of the turf must be secured so it does not curl, lift or separate in wind or under foot traffic. Nails or staples are driven through the turf edge into the base at the correct spacing (typically every 6 to 8 inches). The edge is then finished with bender board, a metal or plastic edging that holds the turf in place and creates a clean line between the turf and the surrounding landscape. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to the paver or concrete edge so there is no gap where debris can collect.
Power brooming is the final step. A mechanical broom is run across the turf to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. This step makes the turf look full and natural and ensures the infill is distributed so there are no bare or thin spots. A turf that has not been power broomed looks flat and sparse. Visible seams, lifted or curled edges, and an unbroomed appearance are all signs that the installation was rushed or that corners were cut.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should have a written specification from your turf installer. This document is your protection and your proof that the work was done to an agreed standard. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene or nylon), the face weight (in ounces per square yard), the pile height (in millimeters or inches), the backing type (perforated or permeable) and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically three to four inches), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam method and edge finishing, cleanup and debris haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only).
The spec should also address any site-specific issues: grading and drainage plan, how old turf or sod will be removed, whether a draining underlay or pad is needed, and how the turf will be finished at pavers, concrete or pool edges. If HOA approval is required for a front-yard installation, the spec should note that the turf colour, pile height and edging will comply with HOA rules, though approval is never guaranteed. Ask the installer to walk you through the spec before signing, and do not accept vague language or missing details.
For residential installations, pet turf, pool surrounds and other applications, a written spec is standard practice. Sacramento Turf Installation is fully insured and provides written turf specs that name the product, face weight, pile height, infill and base depth. If you are ready to move forward, contact us for a free estimate and on-site measurement. For details on cost and timelines, see our pricing page.